Written by Brett Mather - Published on 19 September, 2023
Coir Preparation - A Comprehensive Guide
Coir preparation is an essential step for cultivating healthy mushrooms. The process requires attention to detail, ensuring a safe, clean substrate for your fungi to flourish. In this guide, we'll be walking you through the complete procedure for preparing coir substrate for your mushroom cultivation journey.
This technique was tweaked from Damion 50/50 Tek
Supplies You'll Need:
- Brick of Coir (640g)
- 2 Liters of Vermiculite
- 4.5 Liters of Spawn
- A large esky with a lid
- Gloves
- Micropore Tape (available from a Pharmacy)
- 3.8L of Water
- Sticky Tape
- Mono Tub
Instructions:
- Boil 3.8 Liters of water in a Pressure Cooker or large pot, lid on if safe, to minimize evaporation.
- Prep Esky: Place your coir brick inside the esky.
- Add the 2 liters of vermiculite into the esky.
- Once your water is vigorously boiling, carefully pour it over the mixture of coir and vermiculite in the esky. (pictured below)
6. Stir & Wait: Post sitting, stir the mixture diligently. Reseal and grant it an additional 2-4 hours of resting, time of resting depends on how good your esky is.
8. Check Temp & Transfer Coir: Prior to transferring, confirm that the coir mixture's temperature is below or around 32.0°C range. Let it cool if it exceeds the limit, too hot and it will cook the mushroom spawn. Transfer the substrate into the mono tub, keeping aside roughly 1.5 liters for upcoming steps. (pictured below)
9. Set Aside 1.5L for Casing Layer: This reserved coir mix will act as a casing layer, vital for covering the spawn. A well-maintained casing layer retains moisture and camouflages the grain, reducing the risk of contamination.
10. Add Spawn: With the right temperature conditions, introduce the 4.5 liters of spawn into the mono tub and mix uniformly. You must have clean hands or use gloves. (pictured below)
Before mix
After mixing
11. Apply Casing Layer: Now, blanket the spawn using the previously set-aside coir mix, ensuring zero grain visibility on the surface. Gently pat the casing layer down, but not too much. If it is packed too tightly it will inhibit the speed the spawn colonizes (pictured below)
12. Now put the lid on the monotub and gently store it somewhere it wont be bumpted into. Optimal temp depends on the species you are growing, generally between 24-27°C ;)
Important Note on Colonization:
Resist the urge to open the tub during the colonization phase. Instead, inspect its progress through the plastic tub or clear tape, if used. It's natural to be curious about your growing mushrooms, but opening the tub prematurely risks introducing contaminants. I understand the temptation to check on them, but based on experience, it's best to wait. Your patience will pay off in the end. (Pictured below)
13. Initiate Fruiting: If fully colonized after 10 days, prepare for fruiting. Remove tape, stuff holes with micropore tape, and introduce light and fresh air exchange (FAE). (pictured below)
Here is a tub after only 7 days. It colonized much faster than I expected and so it entered the fruiting stage on its own. I have circled the pins in red, this is where mushrooms will grow.
14. Daily Checks: The mushroom growth will now be rapid, warranting daily inspections.
How will you know if it's fully colonized?
White Coverage:
The substrate will be mostly white, signifying the mycelium's growth. This white is a dense network of mycelial threads.
No Contaminants:
Fully colonized substrate should not have spots of green, yellow, or any other unexpected colors. These can be indicators of contamination like mold or other foreign microbes.
Pleasant, Earthy Smell:
Healthy mycelium has a distinctive earthy, mushroom-like scent. If there are sour or off-putting odors, it might be a sign of contamination.
Harvesting
1. Ideal Harvesting Time:
Veil Breaks:
Veil Breaks: The best time to harvest P. cubensis is just before or right as the veil underneath the cap starts to tear away from the stem. At this point, the mushroom has almost reached its maximum size and potency.
Avoid Spore Drop:
If you wait too long, the caps will fully open, and the mushrooms will release a dark purple-brown spore print onto the substrate. While this isn't harmful, it can make your cultivation area messy. Additionally, after spore drop, the mushroom doesn't significantly increase in potency but continues to grow in size, meaning you're getting more material without added benefits.
2. Harvesting Process:
a. Cleanliness is Key:
Always ensure cleanliness to minimize the risk of contamination. Start by washing your hands thoroughly and consider wearing gloves.
b. Gentle Twist and Pull:
To harvest, grasp the base of the mushroom stem between your thumb and forefinger. Gently twist the mushroom in a clockwise or counterclockwise motion while pulling upwards. This method ensures you get the entire fruiting body without leaving behind any remnants which could rot and contaminate the substrate.
c. Use a Blade:
If you find it challenging to harvest by hand, you can also use a sharp, clean blade to cut the mushroom at the base. (I use scissors)
d. Handle with Care:
Mushrooms bruise easily, and can turn a blueish color when handled too roughly. While this doesn't necessarily impact the potency, it does affect the aesthetic. Always handle your mushrooms gently.
3. Post-Harvest:
a. Drying:
If you aren't consuming the mushrooms immediately, it's crucial to dry them to prevent rot and degradation of potency. Using a food dehydrator is optimal, but they can also be air-dried in a warm, breezy location. Once they're mostly dry from air drying, you can finish the process using desiccant packets to remove any residual moisture.
b. Storage:
Store dried mushrooms in an airtight container in a cool, dark place. For long-term storage, consider using vacuum-sealed bags with desiccant packets.
c. Multiple Flushes:
After the first harvest, the substrate can produce additional flushes of mushrooms. Continue to care for it by keeping the environment humid, and you may see a second flush of growth within a week or so. Some growers even get three or more flushes from a single substrate.
d. Handle with Care:
Mushrooms bruise easily, and can turn a blueish color when handled too roughly. While this doesn't necessarily impact the potency, it does affect the aesthetic. Always handle your mushrooms gently.
Printable Instructions
Supplies You'll Need:
- Brick of Coir (640g)
- 2 Liters of Vermiculite
- 4.5 Liters of Spawn
- A large esky with a lid
- Gloves
- Micropore Tape (available from a Pharmacy)
- 3.8L of Water
- Sticky Tape
- Mono Tub
Instructions:
- Boil 3.8 Liters of water in a Pressure Cooker or large pot, lid on if safe, to minimize evaporation.
- Prep Esky: Place your coir brick inside the esky
- Add the 2 liters of vermiculite into the esky.
- Once your water is vigorously boiling, carefully pour it over the mixture of coir and vermiculite in the esky.
- Let It Sit: Seal the esky with its lid and let the substrate sit for about 30-60 minutes.
- 6. Stir & Wait: Post sitting, stir the mixture diligently. Reseal and grant it an additional 2-4 hours of resting, time of resting depends on how good your esky is.